Snow & Ice Anchors Clinic

This full day course offers important information about construction and equalization of anchor systems for both snow and ice climbing. If you are heading to the big mountains, glaciers or doing Alpine climbs these skills are a must. Guides will instruct anchors that include but are not limited to: ice screws, bollards, v–threads, terrain and other natural features, pickets, flukes, ice axes, and assorted buried anchors such as a backpack or skis for snow. This is a hands on course and you will have time to practice your own placements, create anchors and test them with group help.

GEAR LIST:

This is the general gear list for the Glacier Travel and Rescue course. The first day is often taught indoors to practice haul systems and techniques in a controlled, dry environment. Day two typically moves outdoors for more realistic, scenario-based training. However, the exact program structure is determined by your guides or instructors.

This list can also serve as a helpful reference when planning or purchasing gear for your glacier travel and rescue needs. Don’t forget—you’ll receive a 10% discount at IME during your time at the festival!

1. Climbing Harness (available to demo)
   • Adjustable, with gear loops.
2. Carabiners 
   • Minimum 5–7 total:
     • 3 locking carabiners (screw-gate or auto-lock).
     • 2–4 non-locking carabiners.
3. Belay Device
   • ATC or similar tubular device for belaying and rappelling.
4. Prusik Loops
   • 2–3 loops made from 5–7mm cord (lengths: 48–60 inches).
5. Cordelette
   • At least 1 (16–20 feet of 6–7mm accessory cord, tied in a loop).
6. Pulley
   • 1–2 lightweight pulleys (micro-pulley or rescue pulley).
7. Ice Axe (available to demo)
   • A general mountaineering ice axe suitable for self-arrest.
8. Crampons ( Available to demo, please get mountaineering specific crampons)
   • Compatible with your boots; ensure they fit securely.
9. Snow Anchor Options
   • Pickets: 1–2 aluminum or steel snow pickets. (Guide provide)-  Picket Anchors may not be incorporated with this course.  Instruction for this is in the Snow and Ice Anchor course.
   • Ice Screws: 1–2 (for glacier ice). ( guides provide) Screw anchors may not be incorporated with this course.  Instruction for this is in the Snow and Ice Anchor course.
10. Rope (IMCS Provides)

• Dynamic rope suitable for glacier travel (30–60 meters, 8–10mm).

1. Helmet (Available to Demo)

• UIAA or CE-certified climbing helmet.

Optional/Recommended Hardware

1. Ascenders
   • 1 mechanical ascender (e.g., Petzl Ascension).
2. Sling/Runner
   • 2–3 sewn or tied slings (nylon or Dyneema, 48–60 inches).
3. Tibloc or Micro Traxion
   • For rope-grab applications during rescue systems.