The Art of Bailing

This clinic is perfect for climbers with experience on WI3+ terrain or moderate alpine routes who want to add a crucial skill to their repertoire. Participants should be familiar with basic climbing systems, including rappelling and anchor setups.

Skills Covered

• When to Bail: Assessing conditions, hazards, and timing to make the right call
• Anchor Building: Creating secure V-threads, bollards, and improvised rock or ice anchors. Piton use. Use of Beal escaper or the Equivocation Hitch
• Rope Management: Efficient multi-pitch rappel strategies and preventing stuck ropes
• Risk Mitigation: Protecting rappels, minimizing exposure, an ensuring partner safety
• Gear Choices: What to leave behind and how to manage the emotional cost of abandoned hardware

GEAR LIST:

Here’s everything you’ll need for your ice climbing adventure at Mt. Washington Valley Ice Fest. The festival provides technical gear, but proper personal clothing and preparation are essential for a safe and enjoyable day on the ice.

Technical Gear (Provided by the Festival)

• Boots (demo)
• Harness(demo)
• Helmet (demo)
• Crampons (demo)
• Ice tools (ice axes)
• Belay device, guide provides

Required Personal Gear

Clothing

Layering is key to staying warm and comfortable in winter conditions. Be prepared for cold, snowy, and potentially wet weather.

1. Base Layers
   • Lightweight or midweight synthetic/wool tops and bottoms (tight-fitting, no cotton).
2. Mid Layers
   • Fleece or soft shell for insulation (Power Stretch, microfleece, or similar materials).
3. Outer Layers- available to demo or borrow from IMCS table
   • Waterproof, breathable jacket with a hood.
   • Waterproof, breathable pants (full side zippers preferred).
4. Insulating Layer (“Puffy”) available to demo or borrow from IMCS table
   • Hooded down or synthetic insulated jacket (PrimaLoft or similar).

Accessories

• Gloves:
  • 2 pairs: Insulated, waterproof gloves for climbing.
• Hat:
  • Warm fleece or wool hat that fits under your helmet.
• Balaclava or Neck Gaiter:
  • For extra warmth and wind protection.
• Socks:
  • Wool or synthetic socks (Smart Wool or similar). Bring a spare pair in case they get wet.

Additional Essentials

• Day Pack (20–30 liters):
  • To carry extra layers, snacks, and water.
• Hydration:
  • 1–2 liters of water in an insulated bottle. Avoid hydration bladders, as tubes may freeze.
• Snacks and Lunch:
  • High-energy, easy-to-eat foods (e.g., trail mix, energy bars, sandwiches).
• Sunglasses or Ski Goggles:
  • Protect your eyes from snow glare and wind.
• Hand/Foot Warmers:
  • Optional but recommended for cold conditions.

Optional Items

• Lightweight thermos with a hot drink.
• Camera to capture the experience.
• Money for festival souvenirs, such as MWV Ice Fest T-shirts etc.

Helpful Tips

• Check all borrowed gear fits properly before heading out.
• If you need to purchase gear, take advantage of the 10% discount at IME during the festival!
• Dress in layers that are easy to adjust, as conditions can change quickly.